I was out first light, paddled off the beach early. And it was flawless, really flawless Mavericks, you know. The perfect size, clean, beautiful Mavericks. The period in the swell, you can tell straight-away when you get out there, 20 seconds swell period is there’s so much more water and thickness in the wave. I’d been sitting out the back there’d been one or two waves through the morning that had kept on the outer reef and it’d looked like you could take off and backdoor the bowl on, so I’d gone and sat kind of deeper and further out, waiting for that wave again.And it didn’t really come for about half an hour, 45 minutes, so I lost a bit of patience. And I paddled in a little bit, but I was still deep and that’s when that wave came. And a lot of waves I’d seen that morning had been just barreling on them on the bowl, over taken them. The backdoor didn’t come through, so it was my plan for my next wave and I got a nice entry, I wasn’t too late, I got in, got on the rail early.And I really just laid it over on the rail and tried to, you know, not go to the bottom. Kind of lay hard on the face do my bottom turn hard on the face so I could come up and drive through the bowl. As I came up the bottom of the lip, I looked up. The barrel wasn’t gonna throw. It was kind of getting a little bit tight on the top and because it got tight, I wasn’t gonna get in there. And the last thing you want to do is take the lip on the head of a 25 foot wave on the Mavericks. At the last second I had to straighten out. And try to get away from the lip, instead of pulling in, I just kind of got into the flat and for a split second I thought, well, I’m gonna outrun the lip but then as I looked back I could see it come in and it was gonna connect me on the top of my board, which would have been the worst place to be. So as the lip came down I managed to just jump up and get away from my board and the lip hit, kind of hit right where I was jumping and just threw me into the air.Like a pwoof! It threw me, I don’t know how far, it felt like 10 metres forward in front of the wave and I hit and rolled and then it steam rolled me. It was brutal, I got hit hard, but the next wave actually was even worse. I came up from the first wave, I was rocked with a second section joined at the foam, so you get the peak and then the second section all comes together and I was right in the apex of that. I managed to get a quick breath and then just took that second wave on the head and then took the third one on the apex of the third bowl and the fourth one and the apex of the fourth bowl and then I just got washed past mushroom rock and I was into the lagoon, and eventually, the clean water. You know a wipeout like that at the beginning of the season, I think you know if you don’t get hurt and you survive it, it instills a lot of confidence.You know, because the Jaws contest was the next day so I had that wipeout, I paddled back out, caught a few more waves that I made and surfed successfully, and I walked out of there thinking oh well, nothing can be worse than that. It instills a bit of confidence and even though it was an unsucessful ride, and I got pounded, it gave me a lot of confidence going into the Jaws. The wave that I didn’t make was a very special Mavericks wave. You only get one of those every couple of years.I wish I’d made it. I mean that could have been the ride of a lifetime if I’d have made that one. .