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Why I Surf | Moments from a Surfing Life


The drunk sun lowers his gaze, turning the ocean to beer and it sloshes against white powder the ashes of ancient mountain pyres now loose to the wind creaking between toes the sun’s last gasp the roar and fizz of a set wave sudden night chills and demons deep below the glide, the flow the safety of sand the trudge back up to solid land the lists of things to do the should and could the what might have been decisions made in haste and lust and sloth indecision bred of fear the what could have been no matter, there’s a thread that links the days one thing that’s stayed the same not the dark nights under lights not the hunt for soft skin not fight or flight or avoidance of pain not running, running, running away it’s wax forming bumps it’s watching the wind it’s the gap between sets it’s the wait it’s the wave it’s in that the light on the water the salt on my skin droplets dangling sunshine it’s in that i am that


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