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Surfing without the Frills : Mini Documentary


Surfing has been and always will be in magazines, films, videos and posters There is something to be appreciated in the image of a person riding on a glimmering wall of water Mass media however, often neglects the less spectacular That is why sometimes people get wrong ideas about surfing Unlike skateboarding and snowboarding where the slope is a solid mass In surfing, your slope is a moving wall of water There are lots of variables in making a shape of a wave The wind, swell energy, the coastline and the tide to name a few Conditions often change by the hour and forces surfers to adjust on the fly Keen surfers are always keeping an eye on the weather forecast It is one thing to know when the waves are going to be surfable It is another to actually catch and surf one A lot more time is spent on driving, packing, eating and paddling compared to the time standing on a surfboard People try their hand at surfing and often give up because they misjudge the effort that is needed Balancing on a surfboard eventually gets easier with practice Some people manage to do this fairly well even on their first day A common misconception is that surfing relies on natural instinct and physical ability When in fact, theory and practice is more valuable Many people dream of a life where they live by the ocean Where surfing is no longer a hobby, but a way of life But for the most of us, we have to keep other things in the equation Like keeping a job, feeding a family or the next payment on the mortgage We find ourselves caught in a constant dilemma Balancing life and surfing can be just as hard as learning to surf itself Surf trips are a good chance to explore beaches outside of your local area and have fun with your friends Driving around the new coast looking for surf breaks is a great experience And it’s a good excuse to get out of the city If you have camera, have fun making your own surf film Or even just filming each other surfing will help you improve Whether we like it or not, there are other surfers in the water Especially when the conditions are good Learning to be on good terms with other people can determine how your session goes A little ‘thank you’ and ‘sorry’ goes a long way And it’s important to keep your surfing etiquette Despite all the time, effort and money that is needed, it is truly a rewarding experience riding a wave It is quite possibly one of the best sensations a human can experience There is something about gliding on water that liberates you Fresh salty breeze on your cheeks Glare and glitter of the glass in front of you and chopping of the whitewater behind you You feel as though you are a part of the ocean and the only thing that comes to mind is joy It’s something that can not be expressed in words and you must see for yourself


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