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Surfing with Michel Bourez Episode # 1

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Hey Marco! How are you doing? Come on in, I cooked some raw fish, come and eat! Raw fish? Yeaah! Wonderful! « At the heart of the chicken » Ah, you have a phone call Allô? Yes? No waaay… How high? 7 feet? Ok, ok, I’m coming. Well Marco, let’s go? Let’s go! We go to the heart of the chicken! We arrived one day before the swell reached the coast. On the first day it was pretty small There was 3 feet, 3-5 feet But the waves were still nice It was a beautiful right breaking on a good reef We had that chance not to be so many in the water for the first day And hum… We knew that we were gonna score the day after The day after we woke up, the waves were there The biggest ones were almost 10-feet high And it was wonderful, it was magic To have such good conditions We surfed all day long We woke up, we went surfing, we ate, We went surfing, we came back, we ate, We took a nap, we went surfing, we ate, we slept.Actually it was it, we surfed all day long! Find soon Michel & Co in the episode 2. In the next episode… .

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