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HOTDOGGER presents : SURFING WITH Shane Dorian

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To the whole reason I served is for enjoyment and to get the greatest challenge it’s awesome to be able to you know jump off the plane into the water and go surfing other ways are that good jump yes it’s pretty funny because most people you know most people who follow surfing think of me as as like a specialist who surfs big waves in all reality 90% of the time my surf is in head high waves and smaller and I absolutely love surfing a little way of still I dig it it’s a lot of fun and I like to push myself just like anybody else and I’m getting pretty old these days I’m 43 but um I’ll watch videos of John John Florence and Julian Wilson and you know all the gnarly aerial guys Phillipe Gabriel Medina and I dig what those guys are doing and and you know I’ll watch those guys videos and then I’ll paddle out and try and do what they’re doing just like everybody else on earth you know it’s just a lot of fun I’ve still I still serve for all the same reasons I did when I was a little kid and I still am in love with surfing just like I was when I was a little kid oh you know when I when I was young when I was 20 I remember Martin Potter he retired from the Pro Tour when he was 27 and me and all my friends are like Potter so old why doesn’t he retire already this is crazy like he’s so old he was 27 and ger Brad Gerlach he retired when he was second in the world and I think he was about 26 27 we all thought Goro was so old and and that was just that was that time there like there were no guys that were 35 that we’re surfing in a really high level then you just I don’t know why there wasn’t what there wasn’t and I think these days just people are taking a lot better care of themselves Martin Potter still rips now and so does brad gerlach you know he’s almost 50 surfs really well and I think it is a new era in surfing I think people are are taking care of themselves a lot better eating better being more healthy having less stress in their lives and and and most importantly I think surfing just keeps you young for I know for me it does for Kelly his his love for surfing hasn’t changed over all these years and that’s like you can’t fake good surfing if you if you don’t like to surf very much you can’t you can’t stay at Kelly’s level you know he’s he’s surfing so well right now at 43 years old and I feel like I’m surfing at my top level as well you know when waves got really good I feel like I’m surfing every bit as good as I did when I was in my 30s or 20s Oh all right everybody the perception of big waves where it’s all all in the Pacific you know is all Hawaii or Mavericks or todos santos and northern california so it’s pretty strange after all these years that people serving big waves now there’s a lot of focus on Europe you know and the size and the consistency is amazing in Europe you know it was for example like Mavericks they might have like two or three big swells a year for the whole year and in like nazaré and portugal they’ll have like you know ten or fifteen really big swells a year just just strange how many squirrels again it’s something new for me you know like just stands like the garret stuff came out you know years ago but um it’s just strange how big this fellow’s get over there and how consistent they are you know and doesn’t have to be like the biggest day of the year big I’m just talking about like a normal day when the waves are like forty feet on my face you know it’s been a pretty interesting evolution really of surfing you know through the years you know what when I was growing up big wave surfing was all about just grabbing your surf trunks and your big gun and going surfing on the waves got big it was pretty simple you know the big wave surfers back then we’re pretty old-school you know they would leave their big wave board underneath their house all day I mean all year long and then when the wave he’s got big though it whacks it up and jump in the water it was just simple you know and then it was pretty interesting that when that whole jet ski thing started happening with the tow-in surfing and that was a exciting time to to see guys ride just insanely huge waves and that got really popular for a long time and then now it’s really gone back most of the best big wave surfers now focused exclusively on paddle surfing big waves but yeah it’s for me whenever possible I prefer to paddle when you’re paddle surfing you’re in danger the whole time and also when the wave comes in you have to position yourself and time it right and paddle in and get that intense drop which is what big wave surfing has always been about it’s a big gnarly job

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