Ad Clicks : Ad Views : Ad Clicks : Ad Views : Ad Clicks : Ad Views : Ad Clicks : Ad Views : Ad Clicks : Ad Views : Ad Clicks : Ad Views : Ad Clicks : Ad Views :
You're missing out!

It seems that your browser is not displaying the adverts on this site. Please disable the ad blocker as we display the latest offers for apple products.

Hawaii Rooted: Surfing Like Ancients


When I look at my entire life, it’s just nothing but a storm. The storm rages around me. Within that eye, it’s calm for me, I see clearly. As a kid I so wanted a surfboard. Brand new, shiny, fiberglass surfboard. My dad just got a piece of wood, started carving it in a traditional way. I just looked at the board and told my dad I hated it. I didn’t want it. He just took the board, broke it, threw it in a fire pit and burn it.One night I go to sleep and I started to have dreams and I remember the board. That was a beginning of my journey. A search for that essence of what surfing really is all about traditionally. Every wood speaks to you and talks to you and it tells you a type of board it’s gonna become, their kinolau, their body form. And I want to restore their spirit and give it its life that it wants. Ocean is home and land is where I come to rest.And when we stand up and ride a board, it’s actually to allow us to be spiritually connected to the ocean itself. .


  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Google+
  • Linkedin
  • Pinterest

Leave a Comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This div height required for enabling the sticky sidebar