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Hawaii Rooted: Surfing Like Ancients

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When I look at my entire life, it’s just nothing but a storm. The storm rages around me. Within that eye, it’s calm for me, I see clearly. As a kid I so wanted a surfboard. Brand new, shiny, fiberglass surfboard. My dad just got a piece of wood, started carving it in a traditional way. I just looked at the board and told my dad I hated it. I didn’t want it. He just took the board, broke it, threw it in a fire pit and burn it.One night I go to sleep and I started to have dreams and I remember the board. That was a beginning of my journey. A search for that essence of what surfing really is all about traditionally. Every wood speaks to you and talks to you and it tells you a type of board it’s gonna become, their kinolau, their body form. And I want to restore their spirit and give it its life that it wants. Ocean is home and land is where I come to rest.And when we stand up and ride a board, it’s actually to allow us to be spiritually connected to the ocean itself. .

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