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Hawaii Rooted: Healing Through Surfing

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I look down the line at this probably a football field size, maybe like a hundred yards of a wall of water in front of me, and thought, “Oh, my God. This is when I’m gonna die.” Well, I feel a really deep connection with Maui. Three generations here, my grandfather, my dad, and now, me. Way back, my dad took me body surfing at Makena beach. A lot of guys around me were like, “Whoa, who’s this little girl?” Because I was like one of the only girls in the lineup. I was like, “I can be out here with these guys,” you know? A lot of people think, “Oh, it’s just a surf camp,” but it’s so much more than a surf camp. Instructor: Okay, so you’re paddling to your wave. You’re paddling, you’re paddling, you’re paddling. All right, here comes the wave. It drives you forward, push up. And big step forward. I have so much empathy and compassion for teen girls going through, especially divorce or depression. The girls that come to the camp realize that they have an inner warrior in them and it teaches so much about self-reliance.Them never giving up. Surfing Jaws felt symbolic like I was conquering my depression and my fear out there and I really, truly, felt free and powerful. One, two, three, NALU! Surfing will teach you about resilience, that’s for sure. We create a safe place for girls and women to thrive and really be who they are. The ocean doesn’t judge and that’s a pretty powerful thing when you’re out there. Connecting with girls, it’s the most beautiful thing to be able to share that surfing saved my life and it can save their life, too. .

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